Buxus microphylla (Japanese Littleleaf Boxwood) - UPDATE

 this is an exerpt from the Photo/History page for the Boxwood; click to access

The Boxwood is thriving..I commented at the start of summer that I felt like this plant was healthy & strong & he has easily lived-up to my expectations...so well, that I'm now faced with one of those enviable situations, where I cannot decide what is the front &/or backside of this little tree.

The canopy is developing nicely. Boxwoods grow very slowly, but predictably & they 'play by the rules'..by that, I mean that they respond well to pruning.

The density of the canopy makes it absolutely necessary to use directional pruning to organize the internal
branching. Otherwise, the interior of the canopy would become a jungle of interwoven branches that can become almost impenetrable..that might be to your advantage if growing a hedge, but we're growing a 'little tree'.

So, what view should be the front side & which, the backside? I can't decide, so I'll leave it up to the tree..I'm slowly recognizing that the tree knows better than I about some things.

Abelia x grandiflora ‘Kaleidoscope’ - UPDATE

 below is an exerpt from the Photo/History page for 'Kaleidoscope'; click to see full history of this plant.

 This was the last picture taken of 'Kaleidoscope' & the last entry for this specimen. I posted EOL (End of Life) below the photo (left) which is a phrase borrowed from software programming, because I probably didn't want to admit that I had killed this little tree by over-pruning .

So, another lesson learned, but there was another lesson not forgotten, of taking cuttings from all new plants & propagating as back-up in case something happened to the parent plant.

 Meet 'Kaleidoscope II', ready & willing to take his place as candidate. Potted now in a small training tray, he should be good until spring or summer, next year, by which time, he will be a good deal larger & possibly ready for styling.

"we are experiencing technical difficulties"...

 This blog was offline for a couple of days & we apologize for the disruption of service, due to "technical difficulties". I won't go into all the sordid details, but basically nothing has changed except our address..www.jerryspatio.com is now www.jerryspatio.net . (no, you don't have to type 'www')

This address change is permanent, so if you bookmark it in your browser, you won't have to remember to type .net instead of .com. Hopefully the next time something like this happens, I will be able to blame someone else, but for now, my bad.

Jerry

Bouganvillea - UPDATE

 Below entry is an exerpt from the Photo/History page for the Bouganvillea. Click-on link to access

One of the reasons I started this blog was to be able to keep track of what & when & how.Yesterday, I  wanted to see when the last time the Bouganvillea had been potted & went to the Photo/History page & discovered I had not made an entry here since February.

I didn't recognize the connection between then & now, but after thinking about it overnight, I realized that this was when the first of multiple potting soil issues started, leading to the present, when I am in process of re-potting all or most of the collection into a "no dirt" soil mix.

Laurel Sumac (Malosma Laurina) - UPDATE

 exerpt from most recent entry to the Photo/History page for this tree; to access the Photo/History page, click here.

Well, I was dead-wrong in July when I didn't re-pot the Sumac..the potting soil became compacted, even with the top dressing, water ran-off instead of soaking-in..time for a change. 

This was one of the first "no dirt" re-pots, after I made the decision to go with an inorganic potting mix.

I know now why some specimens are wired into their pots..I used to think that wiring a plant was overkill..that if it were transplanted properly & had a good root system, it shouldn't have to be wired..now I know better.

The potting mix I'm using is much lighter & less dense than soil-based mixes & the pot I've had the Sumac in is not very deep. Our regular afternoon winds almost immediately blew the newly-re-potted tree onto it's side,exposing roots to sun & air & I did not notice for some time. The damage is done..I have been able to repot & I think he's going to live, but he has lost some foliage & may lose more..he is more stable now after a couple of days, but I am keeping him out of the wind. From now on, top-heavy plants will be wired when re-potted.

(Addendum)

Stressed plants often look like they are dead or dying & I hope that is what is happening to our Sumac. "Benign Neglect" did not work & his foliage is mostly dead & probably the branch ends, as well. Until I depot him & get a look, I can't tell how much damage has been done. I will continue his convalescent treatment (no direct sun, no fertilizer, water as needed, keep out of wind) for awhile, but I I will probably cut him back severely over the winter & hope he can recover next spring. I have forgotten whether he will go completely dormant over the winter months & possibly consider a different potting medium. Maybe I can keep him alive?

"No Dirt" Allowed !

Maybe it was inevitable, but I have decided to go "dirt less" in favor of a largely inorganic potting mix for all or most of my "little trees".

From the start of this adventure, 'dirt' has played a pivotal role; First, just plain old generic potting soil seemed to work..then chlorosis (caused by overwatering) entered the fray & it was determined that I needed a mix that drained  freely, with a "grittier" content & feel...enter Cactus & Succulent Mix, But as the collection grew & the number of species & cultivars multiplied, I found myself amending this "ideal" mix in order to neutralize pH, to add chelated iron to the soil, adding worm castings for a higher organic mix, adding perlite to lighten the soil, pine bark to lower pH.

The final straw, for me was soil compaction..we had about 6 weeks of unusually hot temperatures, this summer, which in itself presents unique problems for the container gardener. Plants in small containers, particularly plastic, can overheat in the direct sun & cook the roots; too much sun can wilt foliage, while at the same time promoting stellar growth in some candidates, but soil compaction can turn potting soil hard & impervious..water does not penetrate, but runs off before absorbtion, small feeder roots die first, making it even harder for the plant to feed itself.

An inorganic potting mix comprised of inert compounds found in lava rock, pumice, fired-clay, decomposed granite, charcoal is used by bonsai growers in place of organic potting mix, made with composted peat, Pine Bark, leaf mold, manure or sometimes Coco coir. 

When compaction occurs, there is no choice but to repot, which is traumatic for the tree & exposes the plant to damage from handling, possible contaminants on gloves, tools, buckets & for most of us, something of a "crap shoot" as to whether the repot will be successful or lead to the loss of the specimens.

The use of an inorganic mix will reduce the need to repot so often & allow re-use of the mix, which could actually save money in the long run.

Creeping Fig (Ficus pumila) - UPDATE

 this is an exerpt from the latest entry to the Photo/History page for Creeping Fig.

 In spite of a relatively short time in development, I decided to give the Creeping Fig a more permanent home. He's not finished..no LIVING specimen is ever finished as they continue to grow & evolve.

However, I think we can make a call on this project as successful & completed..besides being fun, we were able to rehabilitate an unwanted & unattractive plant & add an inexpensive specimen 'on the cheap'.

This is one of the first of our little trees to be planted in a 'soil-less' potting mix..there is no top dressing, what you see is the actual planting medium, made up of lava rock, Akadama clay, Perlite & Coco Coir(coconut shell). 

I'm looking forward to seeing where this little guy is going from here..as the canopy grows, it will change the profile & appearance, but my plan is to let this tree show me what he wants to do..then I'll decide what I want to do with him. 

Olive (Olea europaea) - UPDATE

 this is an exerpt from the Photo/History page for the European Olive (Olea europaea). Click-on to access the full history of this tree.

 This summer has been kind to the Olive tree, as it has for many of the 'little trees' in the collection. He has really started to fill out now..the trunk is thickening, lower branches as well & the canopy is becoming denser with adult leaves.

The color of the leaves is a dark, healthy green and with no more than minimal pruning has taken on the classic "pom-pom" shape of the classic Olive under cultivation.

He is due for a repot & fresh potting mix, & maybe a more permanent home than the training tray. I am anxious to see how his root structure has progressed.

Fremont Cottonwood (Populis Fremontii) - UPDATE

 Note: this is an exerpt from the Photo/History page for the Fremont Cottonwood; click to see the full history of this plant.

I didn't know Cottonwoods trees even grew in California & I don't think I've ever seen one growing in a pot, but I'm a believer now.

In July, I reported on how the old adage, location, location, location applies to this little tree, at least. He is continuing to add foliage & is slowly building what I think is going to be an impressive canopy.

I do credit finding a more suitable location for him, but also, I think I've learned how to style & prune him in order to stimulate more branching & back-budding.

Now it is time to "grow some wood".. that will be the priority over the next few months..in the meantime, a repot before the solstice & a transition to an inorganic Potting mix are the main priorities for this tree.

Coprosma 'Karo Red' (aka Mirror Plant) - UPDATE

 this excerpt is the latest entry to the Photo/History page for Karo Red; click to visit or use the menus on the r-hand side of every page.

 2 or 3 days ago, I noticed that the Coprosma's foliage was looking dull, dingy, not the usual evergreen "shiny" leaves & looking closer, saw that foliage was wilting & dying.

We have had unusually hot weather this summer, in fact, the last 6 weeks have constituted one of the hottest summers ever recorded. On further inspection, it seemed that the potting mix was unusually wet, as if the plant was not using any water..I have had this plant (as well as my entire collection) in a Cactus & Succulent mix for the past 18 months or so, but I have not previously encountered anything like this.

I aerated the soil with a chopstick, removed the top dressing & let the soil dry out for 24 hours..the soil appeared "dusty" after drying out..watered deeply, but after another 24 hours, observed that the tree was not taking-up water & that the potting mix had largely become muddy.

This is one of my older plants & other than some leaf burn from an accidental liquid ferilizer spill, has been among the best behaved..he survived the chemical spill & regrew the burned foliage; he survived "bonsai-fication" without a whimper..root pruning & potting in a 3" deep Bonsai tray did not faze him & in spite of the heat this summer, I thought the plant was doing well

This morning, I will de-pot the Karo Red & take a look a the roots..he MAY just be root bound, but that would be too easy. I suspect a complete breakdown & failure of the potting mix & have already made the decision to repot this little tree in an inorganic mix. (my intention is to completely do-away with the old potting mix..no more dirt).

Looking at the Coprosma after de-pot, & he sure isn't "root-bound", so we can eliminate that theory. After rinsing-off the roots & taking a close look, the roots look & feel OK. They are not mushy, no greasy black areas. although I feel like the lack of more feeder roots after this much time is disapointing..he should have developed more roots just under the base, I think..I wonder if the aggregate top dressing I've been using was too thick &/or too tight around the base of the trunk? 

No evidence of "root rot", so maybe I can save this tree..I am attached to Red..not because he is a particularly good looking specimen or that he is a rare or unique tree, but because he is one of my earliest acquisitions & has survived my bumbling efforts, up till now.

Nothing left to do now but re-pot, using the Bonsai Mix & hope for the best. I have been advised to water him in after the repot, keep him out of the direct sun & leave him alone for a couple of days

Only time will tell..check back in a couple of days.

Pittosporum tenuifolium - 'Beach Ball Kohuhu' - UPDATE

exerpted from the Photo/History page for Beach Ball Kohuhu where you can see the full history for this tree.

Sept 8, 2026

The Kohuhu had a good summer so far, filling out & growing new branches & developing a curved trunk that I think will probably become a permanent feature of this tree. 

Back-budding has restored much of the foliage & is a promise of what is to come. He has thrived in 4-6 hours/day of direct sun & our July-Aug heat has not fazed him.

The foliage is now assuming the classical shape & glossy-green that characterizes the Pittosporum. (compare to Wheeler's Dwarf )

I'm hoping that the leaves do not grow much larger than they are now..one of the problems with dwarf or miniatures trees is that they retain larger leaf sizes which are out of scale with the rest of the plant.

I will continue the same regimen for this plant going forward as he obviously happy here, on the patio.

Dwarf Japanese Juniper (Juniperis procumbens 'Nana") - 2.0

 this is an exerpt from the Photo/History page for Japanese Juniper 'Dwarf' (Juniperis procumbens 'Nana')

I've had an eye out for another juniper, although I wouldn't call it a search, I've been waiting for the cheap, $10., "nana" (another name for dwarf) plants to show up at the nursery. I need more conifers for the collection & winter is coming when my maples, citrus & others will be "napping".

I forgot to take the "before" photo before I started preliminary pruning ..opening-up the tree by clearing the overhanging foliage to reveal the trunk & base. You can see the rim of the nursery pot, which I cut-away to be able to see & get at my task.

Little by little, as we remove foliage, the shape of   a bent-looking trunk, old & twisted, possibly shaped by wind or as the plant reached for sunlight.

As I removed more foliage, I began to realize that the trunk actually bends back on itself, forming a 'U' shape. In addition, the plant was seated at an angle in the pot, suggesting that originally, this 'nana' might have grown perpendicular or on a small incline.

The hard part of style-pruning, or pruning in general, is knowing when to stop, but that is easier said than done. I may well have over-pruned this little tree, already.

And, I've decided to hold-off on a repot until I've had a chance to see how this tree reacts to what we've done so far.